25th August 2020

Chefs' lockdown experiments


Kricket’s Goan Sausage Pao with Pickled Onions
With all 3 Kricket sites closed, Head Chef Will Bowlby spent much of lockdown working on new additions to the menu. The sausage dish is a riff on a traditional Keema Pao, where rich and creamy mince is served with bread rolls. Will slow cooks Goan sausage and minced pork shoulder to form a rich and smokey alternative to a Keema which is served with buttered pao, picked red onions and fresh coriander.
Tommy Banks’ Fire Pit Lamb with Fermented Turnip and Crispy Leek
Tommy and team spent a lot of time and effort working on this new dish for Michelin-starred The Black Swan before its reopening last week. A lengthy and complicated process produces the most succulent of lamb: a shoulder of lamb is salt aged and brined before roasted over coals to render the fat down. The meat is then covered in a BBQ sauce made from black garlic, fermented chocolate peppers and woodruff infused bourbon. Suitably smothered, it is then wrapped in foil and muslin cloth and baked under ground in the embers of a fire for 9 hours.
‘Ndontja - Homeslice’s vegan ‘Nduja pizza
The team at Homeslice, including founders Mark and Alan Wogan, spent time working on a vegan alternative to ‘Nduja over lockdown and the ‘Ndontja pizza launched earlier this month. Fermented mushrooms, miso paste, tomato pulp, chilli oil and paprika all go into the recipe to create a plant-based product that packs the same sought after punch as ‘Nduja. As well as the new product, the pizza is also topped with Neil Rankin’s Symplicity mozzarella, tenderstem broccoli and chilli oil. Guests can order a 50:50 pizza in the restaurants - half with Ndontja and half with Nduja to compare!
Pied a Terre’s British whelks with bouillabaisse, burned lemon puree and wood sorrel
Pied a Terre, one of London’s oldest Michelin-starred restaurants is due to reopen on 2nd September. Key to the new menu is a dish developed by Head Chef Asimakis Chaniotis during his lockdown which he spent at home with his family in Greece. Asimakis was lucky enough to dive for some whelks during his lockdown which inspired him to create this dish of whelk cooked in a steamer glaze, bouillabaisse made from sole, monkfish, red mullet, carrots, onions, fennel, garlic, leeks, tomato, saffron, ouzo and seawater. The dish is served in a Triton shell which is filled up with the soup for the customer to drink from.
Fallow’s surplus sriracha with oysters
With a garlic and chilli surplus when the team at Fallow went into lockdown, having launched the restaurant at 10 Heddon St just 10 days earlier, Head Chefs Jack Croft and Will Murray (formerly of Dinner by Heston) started lacto-fermenting it in jars. When the guys returned to the restaurant to open again for take away, the flavour was amazing and it’s now used everyday on their menu, namely on the oysters that are sourced from the River Teign.
Paul Ainsworth’s raw butter at Paul Ainsworth at No6
Wanting to celebrate the act of eating bread and butter before a meal, Paul Ainsworth and team have introduced a homemade creamy raw butter to their menu, which is served theatrically alongside a cheese scone during the restaurant’s 4-course menu. Cream made from Guernsey milk at Briddlesford Lodge Farm is warmed for 30 degrees before being cooled and fermented for three days. Whipping splits the whey from the fat which is then aged for 3 weeks in muslin and a 3% ratio of Cornish sea salt is added. The entire butter roll is brought to table at No6 and staff light a knife on a candle in front of guests so that it slides through the butter.

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